Excerpt from GLAMOUR Magazine, January 14, 2019 by Sarah Wu
Below, celebrity aesthetician Karee Hays and founder and CEO of Shiffa Beauty, Lamees Hamdan, M.D., break things down step by step.
Both Dr. Hamdan and Hays tell me to work from the neck upward, using sweeping strokes that go toward the outer edges of my face. First I cover my clavicle with an up-and-down motion. Next, I do a sweeping up-and-down roll on my neck. After this comes the jawline; here I switch to a back-and-forth roll that starts at the center of the chin and goes toward my ear, repeating this all the way up to my cheekbone. On my forehead I repeat the vertical roll, starting from the middle of my face and moving outward toward my temples. I flip it over to apply the smaller attachment under my eyes (in a horizontal motion toward my temple) and then roll once more in a horizontal movement down my nose.
The phrase to remember here is "lymphatic drainage," a form of massage that pushes fluids to your lymph nodes, which subsequently process and filter them out of your system. When you perform this technique consistently (i.e., via your face roller of choice), it's supposed to deliver depuffing, glow-boosting benefits. Also, it just feels really nice.
According to Dr. Hamdan, there are two key things to keep in mind. "There is no point in rolling your face expecting drainage if you haven’t started with your neck first," she says. "You need to roll your neck first to clear the lymph passageways before starting on the face." Secondly, she cautions against pressing too hard. Use a light hand; the weight of the roller will do the rest.
Hays echoes those sentiments, explaining that too much pressure can actually irritate your skin and break capillaries, a warning I've heard repeatedly from aestheticians. "If you are reusing a roller at home, always sanitize it with alcohol," she adds. Hays recommends beginning with a clean, moisturized face and adding additional layers of product if you wish to do so; the massage will help push them further into the skin.
While I found that the roller already felt slightly cooling when stored at room temperature, there are options for even chillier applications. You store it in the freezer between uses and breathe out a sign of relief when it meets your face. Hays recommends this refreshing approach for those experiencing TMJ or sinus issues.
Both experts tell me I should repeat the ritual daily for the best results—"at least three times a week," says Dr. Hamdan. As for time of day, it's entirely up to you. Dr. Hamdan prefers facial rolling in the morning "because it helps with puffiness, especially under the eyes."
